The Big-Bang Theory: How To Highlight A Fringe

“Bangs are considered the veil of the hair,” says Joico Celebrity Artist, Jill Buck, of Salon Nine Zero One. And that’s why she colors them as if they are an important accessory — not just an extension of the rest of the hair. Today, Jill’s explaining – and showing – her novel approach, using Joico Blonde Life Lightening Powder and 20 volume LumiShine developer.


Always work with your clients’ natural fringe, taking into consideration how they wear their hair on a daily basis.

Remember that coloring the “front fringe” requires a different strategy than coloring the “side fringe.” (More about this, below.)

Your goal is to build up the bangs – starting with the lightest and brightest pieces right at the hairline. Create a burst of color from underneath, so you get a money piece/pop of blonde around the face.

Always section the hair that lays directly forward, and leave out the pieces that fall to the side.

Highlighting the front of the fringe…

The rules: Start by sectioning your client’s hair, away from the fringe. Then, prep hair with Joico Defy Damage ProSeries 1 Bond-Protecting Color Optimizer Spray.

Section 1

Always work with your clients’ natural fringe, taking into consideration how they wear their hair on a daily basis.

Section 2

Create the initial “pop. Slice section – again, thin enough to be able to slice the hair. Apply lightener about 1.5 inches from the hairline. Repeat the above technique. This allows the hair to have room to “travel,” and the ends can come together as one.

Section 3

Take a ¼-inch section, with a medium weave (not back to back) to create depth. Apply lightener 1 ½ inch away from scalp.

Section 4

Take ½-inch section, with a medium weave. This section is about diffusing the line and create a softer weave with the color underneath. Apply lightener about 2 inches from the scalp, tipping out the ends of the hair.

Section 5

Start to lay down the hair in order to determine how much density is in this area of the hair (so you’re not pulling your blonde up too high). Take another section and tease at the root. Apply color about 2 inches from the scalp.

Highlighting the sides of a fringe…

The rules: You want to be a bit softer with your approach here, as clients may want to pull back their hair, or style it up. On the sides, create a back-to-back weave to ensure there is a highlight coming right off of the hairline.

Section 1

Section out a medium-size weave and apply lightener far up the hairline.

Section 2

Drop the section down, and check to see where the hair is going to lay. Take a ¼-inch section for added control, and slightly change your weave pattern—moving from a wider weave into a skinnier weave.

Section 3

This will become a slight triangle. By separating the top of the triangle, you’ll marry the hair there together with the top veil and create depth.

The front piece of the triangle will serve as the pop of blonde in this section. Apply lightener about 2 inches from the top of the hairline.

Repeat on other side.

Rinse and complete hair with Joico Defy Damage ProSeries 2 Bond-Strengthening Color Treatment.